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DANANE: AN UNFAMILIAR MASK

We are met at the bus by Abu the taxi driver friend of Fr. Wreh. There are many Liberians at the stop wanting to help "for small money" because as refugees they cannot hold jobs so money is really tight. Rent for Liberians is double and if you rent you often are required to pay not only your utilities, water and electric, but also those of the landlord.

Father Wreh after Sunday service is greeted by parishionersSunday finds us in church by 10 AM, but not before 6:30 AM devotions at the house. Fr. Wreh insists on this every day as a way of getting everyone up and started. Church has more spirited singing then I have seen in most Episcopal Churches. The church is very warm by mid morning. Fr. Wreh runs a very personal type service and tries to speak to everyone at least once during the service. There are nearly 100 in attendance. They tell of twice that many during the height of the "crisis" in Liberia. People are very proper, women cover their heads and most men wear shirt and tie or fine native dress. Kids are very respectful and well behaved in church.

After service we attend a birthday party for one Liberian who has just come from Liberia. He was working for the Catholic Organization "Don Bosco" which deals with street youth. He was, however, discovered to be a member by birth of the Krahn tribe in Liberia. All members of the Krahn are suspect by the current government. He had to flee the country or face possible prison.

By now I realize that my butt may never be the same as there is no soft place to sit and I have yet to recover from the bus ride. Back at the house Kwame is entertaining neighbors and friends with his remote control car. It is such a hit that he is talking of charging to drive it. Kwame spends the evening sitting in the yard telling anyone that will listen about his adventure in America. " Americans have machines to do everything; cook in a microwave, wash cloths and dry them, wash dishes, grind garbage, pick up dirt around the house, even a machine that gives you money, but no eating machine."

The kids are fascinated by the small toys, but they are not careful with them and they are readily broken. Fr. Wreh and I discuss how African people are more interested in social structure and not things. Europeans and especially Americans like things and collect stuff.

Africans like to use the things and they are entertained by new devices, but once it does not work they can just put it aside. Most African culture does not place a big value on personal ownership. It is more a collective ownership.

Dec. 7 th Monday

Steve Keenan shopping in the Danane marketSpent time in the Market with the Wrehs. Found that the clothes prices were reasonable even though I was a "tourist". On the other hand, food prices seemed high. Market quite large, but was told the next town, Mann, has a much bigger one.

A curious traffic rule I quickly learned. Pedestrians have no rights on the road or street. Vehicles have right of way and if you get hit, it is your fault unless you can prove that the driver intentionally tried to hit you. Compound this with the realization that there are no emergency services and you become a very cautious pedestrian.

Mrs. Wreh is a very good shopper and knows the market and the prices. She is a Via women from Robertsport in Western Liberia. She keeps Father and the household running smoothly.

After a midday break we decided to visit one of Fr. Wreh's latest projects. A charcoal making operation located outside of town. He is helping to get a young Liberian started by fronting money to buy one tree at a time which is cut and burned into charcoal, bagged and sold in the market. A time consuming , hot, dirty and difficult job. The hope is that all involved will benefit and there will be money left over to help fund the school. While we visited the sight a dispute broke out between two Ivorians regarding ownership of the land and trees involved. We spent over an hour discussing the problem with the Chief's son in the near-by village. A real treat for me to be out of the dust and bustle of town and back in a real African village with neat clean grounds

and well cared for thatch houses. One little girl wanted to touch my arm to see if the white would rub off.

Back at the house people keep coming for small favors from Fr. Wreh. Everyone has a story and most are sad.

My Butt remains sore!

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